Kogyoku

Game meat can sometimes feel intimidating, but at Kogyoku in Soshigaya, it is served unpretentiously as grilled skewers ordered from a single stick. The core of the menu is Yezo sika deer skewers, showcasing various cuts such as neck, flank (hara), heart (hatsu), shoulder, and shank (benkei), allowing diners to compare the distinct textures and flavors of each. Complementing the venison is an ample selection of lamb dishes, including aromatic, crisp fried lamb zangi that lets the deep flavor of the meat shine.

The cold dishes and drinking snacks are filled with Hokkaido accents as well. Offerings such as chilled tofu topped with savory matsumaezuke kombu relish, crab tomalley butter canapés, and eye-catching squid ink-cured dried squid pair naturally with sake or cold beer. The kitchen also turns out grilled specialties such as salt-grilled sailfin poacher (hakkaku) and half-dried saffron cod (komai), alongside octopus zangi, allowing you to drink at leisure while drifting between land and sea.

With its mellow, laid-back atmosphere, the space works just as nicely for an impromptu drink alone at the counter as it does for lingering over dishes with friends. Finishing the meal with a toasted onigiri or the day's ochazuke makes it an easygoing tavern to enjoy entirely at your own pace.